!!!WARNING!!!
I am not responsible for prints that do not turn out as intended or any damages that occur as a result of installation or usage of these buttons.
!!!WARNING!!!
There are a nearly endless number of MX switches floating around out there. For the purposes of this project I focused on Outemu switches. While you may be able to use all sorts of other switches in these, I cannot guarantee that any other switches will work. It is highly recommended to try a switch or two out to ensure proper operation before buying a ton of them.
!!!WARNING!!!
These buttons are not compatible with SiTong caps. I may work on a remix that is.
!!!WARNING!!!
The v6 boards from the original OSBMX (with built in connector prongs) are no longer supported due to multiple reports of the connectors breaking (very thin PCBs like to snap)
!!!WARNING!!!
The following text must be included in any distribution of derivatives of this project or the boards. All links must also be included.
Based on the OSBMX v2 by TheTrain.
Copyright © 2025 TheTrain
Changes from the original design:
- list any changes you make here
Anyone selling this commercially must include in the listing that this is an open source item, link to the original repo and include the copyright as well as the link to my X account.
The OSBMX v2 was designed from scratch in Fusion360.
Since the original OSBMX was released the arcade button landscape has changed.
There are now much more affordable and high quality options available commercially like the SiTong MX and LP buttons.
Over the past few years the cost of MJF and SLS have increased significantly through JLCPCB.
As such, the OSBMX v2 is focused simply on 3D printing though home FDM printers. These have not been tested through services like JLCPCB in materials like MJF, SLS or resin. I may add some remixes that are more suitable to those materials in the future.
These buttons have also been designed to print without the use of supports. This cuts down on material waste and print time.
If you are planning to use these with one of the PCBs included in the repo please be sure to research which switches will and will not work. I am unable to answer questions on individual switch compatibility.
Please note that these buttons can also be used without the circuit board as the main housing of the button will hold the MX switches just fine. You can then use a hot swap connector directly or just solder to the MX switches. In this configuration you can also use any type of MX switch even without the notch in them.
A massive thank you to LayerShift (https://x.com/Layer_Shift) for helping get the Fusion360 model all cleaned up.
There is a new PCB design for the OSBMX v2.
The original PCBs from the OSBMX v1 will work just fine on the v2 (lets be honest, most of us have 100+ of these kicking around).
The new PCB design combines the three most common methods of connection into one board:
- 2.8mm prong connector
- Solder pads
- PH2.00mm 2pin connector
Assembly is quite straight forward on this board. All that is needed is to solder the hot swap socket on and, if you choose, the 2.4mm or PH2.00mm 2pin connector(s)
Parts necessary for assembly of the PCBs:
1 x PCB
1 x MX hot swap socket (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001051840976.html)
1 x PH2.00mm 2pin vertical SMD connector (if connecting that way) (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006027334406.html)
2 x 2.8mm prong connectors (if connecting that way) (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002539360973.html) (Type: DJ610-2.8-2)
2 x M2 5mm Hex Hexagon Socket Cap Head Self Tapping Screws (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000350027047.html)
Parts necessary for assembly of 3D printed button:
1 x OSBMX v2 Plunger
1 x OSBMX v2 Rim
1 x OSBMX v2 Main Body
1 x OSBMX v2 Nut
Optionally you can also print a matching wrench to help with tightning and untighning.
You will also need an MX style switch to complete the button.
If connecting via 2.5mm prongs you will need to get a switch that has the LED cut out on there.
If you are connecting via the PH2.00mm 2pin connector, pads, soldering to a hot swap socket or just soldering to the switch directly you can use any MX switch you like.
Not all switches have been tested, there may be some that do not follow the above rules.
All of the boards so far have been ordered though JLCPCB. Due to the size of the boards you can order quite a lot at very low cost. I was able to order 125 of them and still meet their minimum shipping cost limits. You do not need to get this many. I have also opted not to do a panel for this since it appears to still be cheaper to get these done individually. Also please note that recently JLCPCB changed some of their prices for the PCB color, ensure you choose a color like black or green to get the lowest possible cost.
1 - Go to JLCPCB.com
2 - Click on Instant Quote
3 - Click on Add Gerber file and choose the file named Gerber - OSBMX v2.0 multi-connector.zip
4 - Choose the following options for the board:
- Base Material = FR-4
- Layers = 2
- Dimensions = (should auto-populate) 22 * 22 mm
- PCB Qty = 100
- Product Type = Industrial/Consumer electronics
- Deburring/Edge Rounding = Yes
- Different Design = 1
- Delivery Format = Single PCB
- PCB Thickness = 1.6
- PCB Color = (up to you)
- Silkscreen = (defaults to white for all except white boards which is black)
- Surface Finish = HASL(with lead)
- Outer Copper Weight = 1oz
- Via Covering = Tented
- Min via hole size/diameter = 0.3mm/(0.4/0.45mm)
- Board Outline Tolerance = +/- 0.2mm(Regular)
- Confirm Production file = No
- Mark on PCB = Remove
- Flying Probe Test = Fully Test
- Gold Fingers = No
- Castellated Holes = No
- Edge Plating = No
- No advanced options
5 - Click on SAVE TO CART
6 - Go through checkout process, ensure to select economic shipping to keep costs low
A .3MF file is included which can be loaded into most slicers with a set of my recommended settings.
To make each button you will need:
1 x OSBMX v2 Plunger
1 x OSBMX v2 Rim
1 x OSBMX v2 Main Body
1 x OSBMX v2 Nut
The rim should be printed flat side down. The nut should also be printed flat side down.
There are no supports needed for this print.
It is recommended to print at the lowest print layer height your printer can do.
I have extensively printed and tested these on my BambuLabs X1C and P1S using both a 0.4mm and 0.2mm nozzle on normal and matte PLA.
The recommended print setting are to do 4-6 wall loops and then enough top and bottom laters to have solid infill.
You may need to adjust to achieve a good print on your own printer.
!!!Please note - I am not responsible for missprints or any costs incurred from missprints!!!
The original jig file should still work just fine if you need something to help with assembly of the 2.8mm connectors. You can find it in the legacy folder.
Please note that the jig does not do well printed in PLA and will melt during soldering after a few uses.
It is recommended to print in something like resin but please note that a resin print has not been tested.
Every part of this project is open source, all prototyping costs were covered out of pocket.
Donations are not necessary but always welcome! All received donations go into trying new things and ordering new boards for this and other projects.
https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=2JMTZVCGLDYC2
Revision History:
v1.0
- Original design